Skeleton Watches: The Good, The Bad, and the Arm Hair!

Skeleton watches have been around since the 1700s, but it wasn’t until the 1900s that they became popular in watchmaking. “Skeleton” or “openworked” are terms you’ll commonly hear when describing this style of watch design.

If you’re someone who is really interested in the inner workings of a watch and aren’t fond of an open caseback, then this style of watch could very well intrigue you. You can readily watch the mainspring do its thing, or you can see the tourbillon maneuver in the case of some of the more pricey options we’ll cover.

The pieces highlighted here are chosen because they were just announced at Watches & Wonders, or they are getting much more discussion due to their comparable price points, as is the case with the newly announced Christopher Ward, which is frequently compared to the likes of the Zenith Defy Skyline, Oris ProPilot X, Norquain Wild One, and TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton. They’re most likely in the conversation because of their price points and some with recent updates, as is the case with Norquain (be sure to check out the customized options on the Norquain website for extra fun!)

For those of us who are really into the engineering of these little wonders, this really is a great option. However, there is a great deal of difference in the inner workings, and not all movements are made alike. There’s a variety of ‘business’ of components, and if you’re opposed to the “arm hair window” effect, then this might be an option you avoid.

It’s a way for the watchmaker to show off the intricate work that went into the movement. The more expensive on the list are high horological pieces that have finishing that the maker indeed deserves to show off, and of course, if you’re buying or wearing a piece in the $350,000 price range, then the artwork deserves to be seen at all times. The finishing on the pieces at the top of the chart below is gorgeous to look at, and you’ll find yourself diving into the details for hours on end. There’s always another detail to see, perhaps one you missed at your first glance.

So for those who did the Watches & Wonders guessing game, I’ll bet the increased use of skeleton pieces wasn’t too high on the list of predictions. The natural thing has been to compare these pieces with those that were already on the market, and of course, the debate has been fierce. There’s a real love/hate relationship with these divisive watches. Usually, it comes down to whether you can read the time and whether the movement is pretty to look at. If the answer is no to either, then there aren’t too many forgiving in the watch enthusiasm world that will get on board with supporting that new piece. Understandable.

Skeleton watches do seem to be for the diehard watch fans. They are often challenging to read and typically look best in staged photos, not on the wrist. Maybe because the pieces that have the most sparse movements and the beautiful open spaces are then filled with arm skin and hair. One quickly starts to understand why the advice is to try before you buy. All that said, if you are into seeing the movement and not needing to quickly tell the time, then some of these skeletal offerings may be for you!

Featured Skeleton Watches:

Grand Seiko - Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon SLGT003

• $350,000

• Platinum Case and Leather Strap

• 43.8 mm Case

• 100 m Water Resistance

This piece is a real stunner. If you follow the watch world, you can understand right away why the price point is what it is. The hand-crafted nature of this piece shows in its high level of finishing. An incredible level of detail and a tourbillon addition make this piece something you just stare at and can’t look away from. The mechanics are assembled in a way that allows for open space that adds to the allure of the look of this piece. The time is also fairly legible, making it two for two when it comes to the things that most skeleton lovers are looking for.

Parmigiani Fleurier - Tonda PF Skeleton

• $117,000

• Platinum Case & Bracelet

• 40 mm Case

• 100 m Water Resistance

PF is excelling right now with their recent releases. Innovation in their complications and now this addition to the Tonda line. The skeleton version adds a bit of color to the movement which helps draw you in. The aesthetic is beautiful and very well packaged. At this price point, it’s hard to imagine anything but a stunner, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. You’d better like this style of watch if you’re investing in this piece. Then again, if you can afford this price point for a watch, perhaps you don’t have to worry much about the level of skin in the game. It’s a great piece and a case that has been very successful for PF. Well done!

Moser & Cie - Streamliner and Alpine LE and now the Pierre Gasly LE in Pink (Look out Tudor…Pink watches coming for you)

• $80,000

• Steel Case and Bracelet

• 40 mm Case

• 120 m Water Resistance

For me, the Moser was one of the standouts this year. I’m particularly enjoying the pop of color in the Alpine LE and the matching strap is certainly a welcome complement to the blue coloring. I also think it was wise to not include the Alpine connection on the watch beyond the color, as it will certainly help provide longer relevance. Since team names change so regularly, this again will show that it’s just a skeleton watch and not an F1 watch. We can leave it to the Tags or Kiths of the world for that. Again, it would be fairly obscene to spend this kind of money on something that isn’t visually stunning and the movement in this watch is just that! It’s a gorgeous watch and will do well in the market that it’s in.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton

• $27,500

• Titanium Case & Bracelet

• 40 mm Case

• 30 m Water Resistance

This watch has been quite successful for Bulgari and editions with laser cut ‘hand-drawn’ dials are incredibly fun to look at. The innovations that have come from this line have continually set bars in the watch world, including records for the thinnest watch ever! The skeleton dial is yet another step forward in this diverse line, and whether it’s hand-drawn or actual skeleton, this one’s still gorgeous. The artwork that went into the dial does not go unnoticed. This piece is still less than 6 mm thin (thick?) Small seconds and an 8-day power reserve also add to the intrigue and positive aspects of this very intriguing watch. As far as watches go, it’s a lot of watch for the price, though still far from pieces I’ll get to purchase anytime soon.

Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton (Night Surfer favorite was $12,000)

• $11,300

• Stainless but Night Surfer is bead-blasted Titanium

• 41 mm Case

• 100 m Water Resistance

While not a release from this year, it’s certainly one of the more frequently discussed skeleton watches. Zenith makes a very clean watch that has the history of movements that scream accuracy. The Night Surfer editions are my favorites, but I’m a sucker for the blue as well as the bead-blasted titanium. Tooly and with the extra help from some lume. Though those seeking to night surf are probably braver than most, and the lume is an unnecessary bonus. This piece is also one where you won’t have to worry about seeing through to your wrist as it’s filled with bits and bobs that keep it solid while still highlighting the amazing Zenith movement within. This is probably where I would start my skeleton journey if it were a priority for me, but we still have a few others in the running to discuss.

Tag Heuer Monaco Skeleton

• $10,750

• Titanium Case on Rubber strap

• 39 mm Case

• 100 m Water Resistance

If you like the Monaco, then you’re probably going to be okay with the skeleton Monaco as well. It’s already a fairly unique watch, and taking it to the next level of skeletonizing it isn’t too much of a stretch of the watch-lover’s imagination. While I’d take the OG McQueen, this watch still gives you the classic square case with the inner workings visible and again…you won’t have to worry about arm hair in the gears wrist shot. Too much going on to get all the way through the movement to your arm. The pops of blue also make me enjoy the standard version of the skeleton piece. Still a bit more pricey than the average Monaco but not eye-watering so.

Oris ProPilot X Skeleton

• $8,900

• Titanium Case and Bracelet (can be ordered with a strap)

• 44 mm Case

• 100 m Water Resistance

If you’ve ever wondered what it looks like to stare into 10 days of power reserve, then you need not look further than the Oris ProPilot X Skeleton. There’s a lot of texture surrounding the dial on this piece. I’m more likely to select the Kermit or Laser-colored dial just for the interesting pieces that are in this ProPilot X series. The skeleton still has the hardware to make it a very nice watch at this price point, and you can’t look down at a 10-day reserve if a tightly wound spring is your thing. Oris is also a brand that many love, and that’s a great reason to lean into this piece too! It is not a small piece, coming in at 44 mm, so if you have the wrist capacity to pull it off, then good on you! It may not be approachable for all, but it’s still a lovely-looking skeleton and not one to be overlooked.

Norquain Wild One

• $5,790

• Fully customizable colors in the newest version (Blue, Green, Red, & Black)

• Titanium Case with Rubber Strap

• 42 mm Case

• 200 m Water Resistance

Here’s where we start to get into some pretty impressive stats, and the looks are solid too! If you like pops of color with your skeleton watch, then you’ve found the one for you. On top of it, you can customize it like you did with your new 911. Pop online, select the colorway that speaks to you, then you’re off to the races or to your tennis lesson with a watch that is purpose-built to be played with. At under $6k USD, 200 m water resistance, lightweight, and some great shock resistance makes this a solid choice for anyone looking to get into a new watch or into Norquain - a brand that has been doing really well lately. If you dig celebrity endorsements, then look no further than a wrist shot with Mark Wahlberg, who has proudly repped this piece when he’s not wearing one of his amazing Pateks or Rolex watches. This is a good way to get into Norquain and skeletons as you’ll still get to include color in the selection.

Christopher Ward - The Twelve X Titanium

• $4,865

• Titanium Case and Bracelet

• 41 mm Case

• 100 m Water Resistance

As of this morning, this isn’t the latest piece to come out in all its skeleton glory. Mr. Gasly is able to take credit for that honor, and since it may be a tough weekend for Alpine, I think he deserves the win. That aside, the Christopher Ward is sparking a lot of conversation. Not Bremont levels, but the marketing behind this watch has probably placed it in your feeds on more than one occasion at this point. So what’s the verdict? As a value proposition, I think this watch is a good choice. At under $5K, it’s getting harder and harder to find solid, unique watches. Soaring prices have led to markets that are simply less predictable anymore. If you’re already a CW fan, then you might say this is not far off in price from the Bel Canto. It has a unique look and is made of titanium. All wins for this piece.

The Twelve is already a highly sought-after piece, and adding the skeleton style to the lineup will only continue the desire for the devoted to pick up this piece. I personally like it, but can certainly say that if you’re a ‘finishing’ kind of connoisseur, then perhaps you’re going to want to spend the additional $20K to get into something a little more to your liking. If you’re simply a watch lover and skeleton is the style for you, then this is an incredible proposition and a way to get into the wild world of skeleton watches with a British brand that’s been nailing their corner of the market. Worth a look for sure!

Other Noteworthy Mentions:

If the pieces above aren’t quite what you’re looking for, then perhaps you can consider a few of the options listed below. There seems to be no lack of options for new skeleton pieces, and 2024 has had quite a lot of options for you. There are certainly more expensive options and rarer options than the watches mentioned above, but the conversation in my circles seems to be focused around many of the pieces above.

That’s not to say that the pieces on this list are not more exquisite or noteworthy. It’s simply where my conversations have been in the past several weeks. I am always happy to stare into the depths of the JLC and Cartier. The conversation around the latest Freak was robust, but it’s also not quite the same type of skeleton as some of these others, and while it’s a gorgeous piece, I simply didn’t give it more time for this particular article.

Piaget also was highly discussed at Watches & Wonders, and with the world record for the thinnest tourbillon watch, it is especially worthy of mention. I’m sure the price will also make you do a spit take, but as conversations about the Kith X Tag collab were also price-heavy, it’s important to talk about the non-price components too and the inherent feelings these little wonders bring us as well. We can enjoy the art, feel the nostalgia, or other positive feelings, and not have it on the list of something we plan to buy. Worth noting that many of my favorite watches will forever fall into grail status and thus will not be something I am fortunate enough to own. My love for them will not wane simply for that fact.

• Montblanc  -1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph

• Bell & Ross - BR. 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic

• Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

• Ulysses Nardin - Freak S Nomad

• Baume et Mercier - Riviera Squelette

• Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton

• JLC Reverso Skeleton

• AP Royal Oak Skeleton

• Piaget Polo Skeleton

• Hublot Big Bang Skeleton

• Greubel Forsey

Thanks again for reading, and if you like this or others, please share, like, subscribe! I appreciate the watch community and thank you for reading the latest #Watchcology!

Cheers,

Adam

**All photos are sourced from brand sites**