Reviving American Watchmaking: Cornell Watch Company

Alexander Chen

If you’re like me you’re rooting really hard for an American watchmaking revival. A brand perhaps you haven’t heard of yet but you need to be aware of is the Cornell Watch Company, a revival of the original 1870s Cornell Watch Company of Chicago. Their first (new) release, the 1870 CE (Classic Enamel), is a nod to the past, coupled with the precision of modern craftsmanship and done in partnership with American watchmaking royalty!

The 1870 CE is a heavy nod to the glory days of American watchmaking. Drawing inspiration from the original Cornell railroad pocket watches, this model combines tried and true watchmaking techniques with today’s technology. The Grand Feu enamel dial, thermal blued hands, and hand-finished movement decoration all harken back to a time when these watches guided railroad workers across America.

Once upon a time, American watchmaking was at the top of its game with brands like Hamilton, Waltham, and Elgin leading the pack. These companies were hugely popular in their day (Some still around today - doing well), producing reliable and beautiful watches. Over time, challenges shifted production overseas. But now, we’re seeing a fantastic comeback thanks to dedicated watchmakers like RGM, Cornell, Weiss and a few select others, who are crafting watches with meticulous detail and top-notch finishing, rivaling the best in the world.

At the heart of the 1870 CE is the Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 automatic movement with a micro-rotor, offering an impressive 86-hour power reserve. This 33-jewel movement is a marvel, ensuring accuracy and reliability. The movement’s decoration is pure art, with a brushed solid gold plaque on the micro-rotor, radial brushing on the bridges, and perlage on the mainplate.

• Calibre: Schwarz Etienne ASE 200

• Power Reserve: 86 hours

• Jewels: 33

• Frequency: 3 Hz

• Balance Wheel: Fixed inertia, produced by Schwarz Etienne

• Hairspring: Spiral with flat Philips terminal curve, produced by E20

The Grand Feu enamel dial of the 1870 CE is simply glowing, crafted by hand and repeatedly fired between 1472-1652°F (800-900°C) to achieve its flawless finish. The enamel track and numerals are part of the surface, ensuring they last. The thermal blued steel hands, fired between 536-572°F (280-300°C), add a touch of classic elegance.

• Dial Material: Grand Feu enamel

• Hands Material: Thermal blued steel

• Dial Technique: Handcrafted and repeatedly fired enamel

• Hands Technique: Fired to achieve blue coloration

The 39mm case, a mix of brushed and polished stainless steel, balances modern and vintage aesthetics perfectly. The dimensions are just right for a comfortable and refined look on the wrist.

• Case Diameter: 39mm

• Case Thickness: 10mm at the case, 11.3mm at the crystal

• Lug-to-Lug: 48mm

• Lug Width: 20mm

Roland Murphy, the founder of RGM Watch Company, played a significant role in the development of the 1870 CE. Murphy is a revered figure in American watchmaking, known for his dedication to traditional techniques and commitment to quality. His expertise ensured that every detail of the 1870 CE meets the high standards set by both RGM and Cornell Watch Company, making this watch a true testament to American craftsmanship and partnership.

Cornell Watch Company isn’t just about creating beautiful watches; they’re about supporting the future of American watchmaking. For every 1870 CE sold, they donate $500 to scholarships for American watchmaking students through the Horological Society of New York. This commitment ensures a bright future for the industry in the United States.

Additionally, Cornell Watch Company is compiling a free, open-access directory of American watchmakers, technicians, and component manufacturers. This initiative aims to increase transparency and integration across the American supply chain, promoting the utilization of American components and supporting the growth of new watch companies.

Bringing back American watchmaking takes more than just passion. It takes companies like Zach Smith’s, who is innovating and making the microscopic parts necessary for accurate watches. While Zach wasn’t involved in this collaboration, he’s worth highlighting as someone who is transforming American watchmaking. He’s using technology and engineering to revolutionize the industry, but even he admits we’re still years away from the full resurgence. This forward-thinking approach is essential for the revival of American watchmaking, ensuring that we honor our heritage while embracing future innovations. Check out Zach’s work here: https://www.hourprecision.com/

Cornell Watch Company’s dedication hasn’t gone unnoticed. CEO John Warren shared the company’s excitement about participating in the 2024 Edition of GPHG: “We are thrilled to participate in the 2024 Edition of GPHG among so many exceptional American brands - RGM Watch Company, JN Shapiro, and Fleming to name a few. The future of American watchmaking is bright, and we are excited to continue championing American watchmakers and suppliers.”

The Cornell Watch Company’s 1870 CE is a wonderful example of what the future holds for American watchmaking. It combines traditional craftsmanship with modern precision, resulting in a watch that’s both beautiful and highly functional. The company’s dedication to supporting the next generation of watchmakers and promoting a more integrated American supply chain is commendable.

Priced at $10,750 and produced upon request, the 1870 CE is an investment in both a piece of American heritage and the future of American watchmaking. As more companies like Cornell Watch Company join the industry, the trend towards better-made, American-produced watches is something to celebrate. The 1870 CE is a testament to the craftsmanship, innovation, and dedication driving this positive trend.

We wish Cornell Watch Company and John well and best of luck as they go through the GPHG process!

Thank you for reading and supporting the revival of American watchmaking!

Take a moment to check out Cornell Watch Company here: https://www.cornellwatchcompany.com/

-Adam

Special thanks to Alexander Chen who provided many of the high - res images for the post! Find him on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/chen_alexander?igsh=NjNxenppcjR2MjEy