Green With Rolex Envy & That Watch Podcast
I realize this isn’t going to be treading new territory. Talking about Rolex offerings is done every day by too many writers, I’m sure. This article really tracks more into my journey as a watch enthusiast. I’m an admirer of Rolex. I’m pretty sure that when I’m buying my first Rolex, it will be one of the usual suspects: Explorer I, Explorer II, or Submariner (No date, please!). But as I learn more about Rolex and grow my appreciation for their watches, I’m also very drawn to Submariners with a little more pop to them.
I’ve really enjoyed listening to That Watch Podcast (www.thatwatchpodcast.com) since its inception. If you haven’t yet been listening, you really need to start downloading their episodes right after you finish this. G (Instagram handle: Solidcaseback), Matt (PandLwatchcollection), and Darren (Diversewatchcollector) are our hosts. They have amazing collections, focusing mostly on Tudor and Rolex (though one of our co-hosts just brought home an incredible Piaget). As they warn at the start of the pod, they use some colorful language and have very frank conversations about what they see, like, collect, and admire about watches. Please go listen!
When I first started listening, I admittedly had a tough time following how quickly they could rattle off reference numbers. I really wasn’t sure this was the podcast for me. They know their stuff, and when someone starts throwing these complicated reference numbers at a new fan of watches, it can be tough to follow. You try to Google along with the conversation and quickly pick up that a four-digit number immediately tells you the rough age we’re talking about, or when they mention 16750, they’re talking about a Pepsi from the ’80s. What was a foreign language was quickly becoming something I was picking up.
Most recently, they’ve spent some time talking about their favorite green Subs, which is what I’m going to spend a little more time on later in this piece. But I’m really glad they use the references and aren’t always using other terms for the watches because it’s one more part of watches that I’m really enjoying learning about. Slowly but surely, I’ll pick it up. But since I’m interested, I’m making a huge leap of logic and assuming others may wish to know a little more, though I’m sure most reading this would easily school me on the subject.
Understanding Rolex Reference Numbers
Before diving (sorry, it just comes out) into the watches I want to focus on, it’s worth explaining how Rolex numbers their watches. These reference numbers are a coded way of providing actual useful information, and as a newcomer to Rolex, it can feel like a lot.
Reference Number Structure:
Traditionally, Rolex reference numbers consist of four to six digits. More recent models use six digits.
• The first two to four digits usually indicate the model type and series.
• The last digit often denotes the material or bezel type. For example, a “0” might signify a steel case, while other digits can indicate precious metals or special bezel materials.
Example with Submariners:
• 16610: This reference was used for the Kermit. The “16” indicates it’s a Submariner, and the “610” adds specificity within that model line.
• 116610: The extra “1” at the beginning, seen in the Hulk and Starbucks models, marks an update or newer generation of the Submariner line.
• 126610: This follows the same logic but signifies further updates and modern enhancements, as seen with the Starbucks.
Letters at the End:
Often, letters are added at the end of the reference number to indicate specific features. For example:
• LV: “Lunette Verte” (French for “green bezel”), seen in Kermit and Hulk.
• LN: “Lunette Noire” (black bezel), though not used in these specific models, is common in other Submariners.
Easy, right?
Colorblindness
I think I’ve mentioned this, but if not, bear with me for a moment while I tell you a bit about myself. I’m colorblind. I see colors, but not the way most of you do. When I see certain shades of green by themselves with nothing to compare them against, I’m left to guess. Sometimes it looks gray, sometimes red, sometimes brown. We just have so many shades in our color wheels that it’s really challenging for me to tell what the color really is. I just have to go by what I like.
It gets particularly tricky when you look at the green that Rolex has used in their Green Submariners over the past couple of decades. Kermit and Starbucks—I mean 16610 and 126610LV—look very similar to my eyes. For me, I’d have to see if it had a cool ghost patina on it or if I really want the more modern movement to help me make a decision because color alone will not be what does it ultimately.
Green Subs
Lately, That Watch Podcast has focused a bit of time on Matt’s new Kermit - his 16610. Yes, I had to look it up, and yes, I always heard collectors talking about the Kermit, Starbucks, and Hulk. I wasn’t always certain of the differences between them, so as I did my research, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to write a little more about my thoughts on them and why they’re so iconic. Also, as green has snuck into watches more and more, I’ve really thought that the color was awesome on so many watches, and I hope that, when done tastefully, others will continue the trend (Jack Mason’s new GMT is a stunner in green).
Rolex has obviously offered the Submariner for many decades at this point. In fact, 1953/54 was when the first one came to life for the first time. It’s one that’s on my list, and while many of you have had multiple perhaps, I’m really looking forward to picking up that No Date from my AD and putting it on for the first time….now I have to convince my better half that I can go ahead with that, ummm, investment (I know it’s not really…but I’m trying here).
There have been three models with green attributes, and this is what I want to spend more time on here. Among these, three Submariners—Kermit 16610LV, Hulk 116610LV, and Starbucks 126610LV—stand out because Rolex, at times, lets their hair down and goes nuts. So here’s a little more interesting information about each one in case you too were looking for an article that covered them all in one place. It’s been a while since one of the big brands hashed it out, so here’s my take:
The Kermit 16610LV
History and Launch:
Introduced in 2003 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, the Kermit 16610LV is like the OG of the Green Rolex. It has the heritage of being an anniversary piece, but as first in the door and only sporting five digits, it has some clout in the community. Rightfully so! Sporting a green aluminum bezel (no frogs were harmed in the making), it was the first of its kind in the Submariner line.
Why It’s Celebrated:
This unique green bezel made traditionalists clutch their pearls and collectors open their wallets. Produced only until 2010, it’s now harder to find but easier if you’re willing to pay the $12,000 to $16,000.
Collectibility:
With its limited run and transitional status, the Kermit is very desirable, and the good ones are harder and harder to find. Matt - I’m looking at you, mate!
The Hulk 116610LV
History and Launch:
Released in 2010, the Hulk 116610LV didn’t just smash records; it smashed traditional notions of what a Submariner should look like. Featuring both a green ceramic bezel and matching green dial, it was as bold as putting puzzle pieces on your watch dial…ok, not that bold. This model came with the upgraded Caliber 3135 movement, ensuring that the Hulk was both modern and elegant.
Why It’s Celebrated:
It’s all-green! It was seen as bold and new, and it was certainly a hit and remains so! The ceramic bezel and Chromalight display (because why not have a watch that glows like a rave party?) were both seen as the next step in the journey Rolex was taking with their new green hits! The prices for these gems range from approximately $18,000 up to $30,000 and sometimes even higher.
Collectibility:
The Hulk is the ultimate modern luxury sports watch, desirable for both its looks and the fact that it was discontinued in 2020. Cue the collector frenzy.
The Starbucks 126610LV
History and Launch:
Launched in 2020, the Starbucks 126610LV is the newest kid on the block, merging elements of the Kermit and Hulk like some sort of watchmaking wizardry. Featuring a green ceramic bezel and black dial, it’s like the perfect blend of espresso and milk—hence the nickname. Ok, if that’s really why it got its nickname, I quit…Equipped with the Caliber 3235 movement, it’s more precise and has a longer power reserve—because nobody wants to wind their watch every two days, apparently.
Why It’s Celebrated:
This modern classic combines the best of its predecessors, making it the hybrid you didn’t know you needed. Its upgraded movement and features showcase Rolex’s knack for constant improvement like your friend who always has the new tech toys. These pieces range from $15,000 to $20,000.
Collectibility:
Quickly becoming a favorite among collectors, the Starbucks is proof that even in the world of luxury watches, everyone loves the throwback, even if it’s throwing back to the early 2000s. (Isn’t that era now considered neo-vintage? Who comes up with this new way to make me feel old?!?)
So Why Green?
Green has been one of those colors that found its way into watches and has stuck around. Hey, even blue had to do that to get into the game, and you see it more and more. Green is the same thing. It’s more common, and hey, when it looks that good, you let it keep doing its thing.
Brand Identity: The green color has become synonymous with Rolex, making these models instantly recognizable—even if your friends think you’re just really into St. Patrick’s Day.
Uniqueness: The use of green sets these models apart from the more traditional Submariners, adding a unique and modern touch that appeals to collectors and enthusiasts.
Conclusion
The Kermit, Hulk, and Starbucks each hold a unique place in Rolex’s storied history. These models are celebrated not only for their distinct designs and technological innovations but also for their ability to capture the essence of Rolex’s enduring appeal. As icons of the watch community, they continue to be highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike.
For those looking to invest in a piece of horological history, these iconic Submariners represent the perfect blend of tradition and modernity. Owning one of these timepieces is not just about possessing a luxury watch; it’s about being part of a legacy that continues to inspire and captivate the world of watchmaking. Plus, let’s face it, they’re way cooler than their nicknames, but Hulk is pretty cool for a nickname.
I’ve written before about all of the watch podcasts that have impacted me and what I like. That Watch Podcast is one of my absolute favorites. It’s just the type of casual conversation you’d want to have with your friends, especially if you had collections like theirs. It makes you aspire to collect more watches. It makes you want to go to your AD and drink their champagne, and more importantly, it makes you want to go hang out with Darren, Matt, and G! Great guys who know their stuff, have fun with their watches, and love chatting about them. I’m appreciative of what they bring to the #watchfam.
Thanks for reading another edition of Watchcology!
-Adam