Cynicism in Watch Critiques
Why So Serious?
Ever since Watches and Wonders, there has been a ton of coverage about how slow or weak the show was. Many, of course, are using 2023 as the comparison , where we saw releases that were particularly out of the norm for many brands, including Rolex. It’s critical to remember that this show is still in its infancy. It’s a splintered offshoot of a now-extinct show, and it’s still finding its sea legs, as it were.
Big money shows up, and the brands at Watches and Wonders and other shows in Geneva during the week have a lot on the line. It’s their one chance to get in front of potential bulk buyers and the big names in watch media.
Considering the show’s age, it’s also important to point out that there were releases at the show that we’ll be talking about for years to come. It may not have been exciting to some of those ingrained in watches, but to the masses, there were some hits that will have staying power for years.
Let’s not forget that COVID-19 threw the industry a curveball like no other. Given how long it takes to bring a watch to market, it’s likely that some pieces were made at a time when the industry assumed a cooling off was coming. They were made for the most people rather than simply for the enthusiast community. But I’m no insider, and I have the ability to wildly speculate. Though I’d argue that’s what you’re getting in many publications out there. It’s all in fun, and hopefully, you’re not turned off by the idea that someone like myself might have a valid opinion here.
Sidebar:
Are you credentialed to have an opinion? This was an argument someone attempted to articulate in a group chat recently. It led to some who have been growing their voice in the watch industry to push back and others who came to their defense, saying that people start somewhere in this journey. You don’t have to listen to them if you don’t value their voices. Experts in journalism are frequently just experienced enthusiasts, and I don’t know about you, but I like diversity in thought. If someone brings a well-articulated opinion and they have an appreciation for watches, then I’m all ears.
Supporting the Watch Industry:
Big money yields big opinions. Some in the watch influencing sphere are positive for the sake of being positive. If your interests lie in an industry thriving, then it makes sense to generally be upbeat. However, honesty is a value that keeps journalism legitimate and can be the difference maker between real journalism and one built to sell a product. Both have value in the market, but journalism should provide accurate statements.
Perhaps the line is that journalists shouldn’t take sides at all and remain neutral rather than go negative, unless the work of art is a stolen homage or something truly harmful to the industry, which a journalist should write about.
Again, I point to the keystone here that rising tides raise all ships. The market will weed out the pieces that aren’t meant to be. But then, how can you compete with juggernauts who will always out-market you, like Rolex, whose clout is beyond the reach of most brands in the world? Again, I say honesty is the best policy. Negativity in one’s life tends to yield more negativity.
If you always bring negativity and criticism, that’s what you’re likely to get back in life. Some people make a lot of money being negative in journalism and in influencing the watch industry. This is not to say that people shouldn’t criticize, but I would argue that when you hire someone like Rob Nudds (https://www.therealtime.show/rob-nudds ) to critique your brand, you’re hiring an expert to give you the straight talk. You want an inside opinion to make changes to help sell more. Those who decide to be negative as a career path may find success, but it seems antithetical to helping raise the industry you likely love.
Another example from this week was a great interview between Simon (Escapement24: https://youtube.com/@escapement24?si=vmQNH5PHZZ293MIA) and Andrew McUtchen on Simon’s YouTube channel. The topic of Watches and Wonders came up here too, and it was great to hear how both were able to articulate gently the components that they felt were not at their highest level of achievement, but the majority of the talk was able to pivot to the positive and what worked for the fair.
I also respect Simon’s ability to dissect a challenging topic like a rebrand that was, let’s say, questionable. His video on this topic was done with respect and wonderment about why the change took place, but it never lowered to the depths of attacking a brand. In fact, plenty of time was spent on what works with the brand and his appreciation for it.
It’s nice when those who offer their opinion on watches, regardless of whether they are paid by brands, are able to be neutral but mostly positive. That’s my personal taste and one that I think resonates with many. After all, it’s too easy to fall into the trap of constant negativity, and it’s a pit that is hard to crawl out of once it has become part of your own personal brand or lifestyle. Maybe it gets clicks, but it won’t keep you happy.
Another recent interview between Alon Ben Joseph and Eric van Leeuwen (an up-and-coming watchmaker of Maes Watches)
had a great, inspiring conversation. They disagreed on items but kept a balance between humble and positive—two great attributes that inspire and make me aspire to carry on what they do for the industry.
Some of this also comes out of my wonderment of how art critics rise up as tastemakers. Art, like watches, is so subjective, and to me, it’s more enjoyable to generally support those brave enough to venture into the profession or the art because we need more in our lives. The bravery speaks for itself, and the beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I think true watch enthusiasts get this concept well.
I’ll also add that I don’t love all art, and I surely don’t love all watches. But I can keep the lesser comments to myself generally, and I’m happy to share the things that I like. Sure, I speak with my wallet from time to time, but I also appreciate high horology pieces as much as the next person who won’t ever own one.
But hey, this is all just my opinion.
Coming up!
Next week I’m hoping to put out a review for Lōcī Watches! (https://www.lociwatch.com/) Trip Henderson is the Founder and has an incredible story of his journey from the US Navy to creating his own watch company! I’m really excited to talk to you all about his brand and his incredibly beautiful watches. More on that soon!!
Thanks for reading!
Adam
👌🏼