Behold the Tudor Submariner
The Tudor Submariner, produced between 1954 and 1999, stands as one of the most celebrated dive watches in horological history. Though often considered the more affordable sibling to the Rolex Submariner, the Tudor Submariner carved out its own legacy through military connections, unique design elements like the Snowflake hands, and its accessibility. Below is an in-depth exploration of the Tudor Submariner’s history, references, military usage, collectibility, and significance, along with detailed specifications for each model.
Origins and Development
The Tudor Submariner was introduced in 1954, just one year after the Rolex Submariner, with the goal of offering a reliable, high-quality dive watch at a more accessible price point. While sharing components like the Oyster case and screw-down crown with Rolex, Tudor employed modified ETA movements, which allowed for a more affordable price without sacrificing durability [1].
As the years passed, Tudor began to develop its own distinct identity with unique design elements, such as the iconic Snowflake hands introduced in 1969. These features helped the Tudor Submariner establish itself not just as a tool watch, but as a beloved timepiece among collectors and military organizations alike [2].
The following are the key references of the Tudor Submariner, each contributing to the watch’s legacy across its 45-year production run:
Reference 7922 (1954-1958)
• Case Size: 37mm
• Movement: Caliber 390 (manual wind)
• Water Resistance: 100m (330ft)
• Dial: Black dial with round and triangular hour markers
• Crown: Screw-down crown without crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass
• Lume: Radium [3].
Reference 7924 (1958-1960)
• Case Size: 38mm
• Movement: Caliber 390 (manual wind)
• Water Resistance: 200m (660ft)
• Dial: Black dial, no date
• Crown: “Big Crown” (8mm), without crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass [4].
Reference 7016 (1968-1975)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2483 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Snowflake hands, square hour markers
• Crown: Screw-down crown with crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass
• Military Use: Marine Nationale [5].
Reference 7021 (1969-1975)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2483 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Snowflake hands, square hour markers, with date
• Crown: Screw-down, with crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass with cyclops over the date
• Military Use: Marine Nationale [6].
Reference 9401/0 (1975-1980s)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2776 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Available in blue or black, Snowflake hands
• Crown: Screw-down crown with crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass
• Military Use: Marine Nationale and other military forces [7].
Reference 9411/0 (1975-1980s)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2784 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Snowflake hands with date, available in blue or black
• Crown: Screw-down, with crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass with cyclops over the date
• Military Use: US Navy, Marine Nationale, Argentine Navy [8].
Reference 76100 (1980s)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2824 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Lollipop hands (rounded tips), date function, black dial
• Crown: Screw-down crown with crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass with cyclops over the date [9].
Reference 79090 (1989-1995)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2824 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Mercedes hands, date function, black or blue dial
• Crown: Screw-down crown with crown guards
• Crystal: Plexiglass with cyclops over the date
• Bezel: Rotating, with 60-minute scale [10].
Reference 79190 (1995-1999)
• Case Size: 39mm
• Movement: ETA 2824 (automatic)
• Water Resistance: 200m
• Dial: Mercedes hands, date function, black or blue dial
• Crown: Screw-down crown with crown guards
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal, cyclops over the date
• Bezel: Rotating, unidirectional [11].
Military History and Use of the Tudor Submariner
One of the defining features of the Tudor Submariner’s history is its extensive use by military forces across the globe. Militaries favored the Submariner for its affordability, durability, and legibility, making it an ideal choice for a dive watch in demanding underwater operations.
Marine Nationale (French Navy)
The French Marine Nationale began issuing Tudor Submariners to their divers in the late 1960s. These watches, notably references 7016 and 7021, were used extensively in diving missions. Issued without bracelets, the Marine Nationale fitted the watches with custom NATO-style straps, a tradition that continues in the dive watch community today. Tudor was chosen primarily due to its affordability compared to Rolex, while still offering the robust construction of the Oyster case and water resistance [12].
US Navy
During the 1970s, the US Navy also issued Tudor Submariners, specifically the Reference 9411/0, to its divers. The Submariner’s ruggedness and ease of maintenance made it an essential tool in the harsh conditions of underwater missions. The use of the ETA movement allowed for straightforward repairs, a key advantage in military applications [13].
South African Navy
The South African Navy also selected the Tudor Submariner for its dive operations. Though less documented, several Tudor models with military engravings have surfaced, making them highly sought after by collectors. The watches were likely chosen for the same reasons as the Marine Nationale and US Navy: durability, legibility, and affordability [14].
Argentine Navy
The Argentine Navy was another military organization known to have used Tudor Submariners. These watches, engraved with military markings, were used by divers in demanding environments where reliability and resistance to water pressure were critical. This further solidified the Tudor Submariner’s reputation as a tool watch trusted by the world’s military forces [15].
Why the Tudor Submariner Was Selected by Militaries
Several factors made the Tudor Submariner an ideal choice for military dive units:
1. Affordability: Tudor’s use of ETA movements allowed the brand to offer high-quality dive watches at a significantly lower price than Rolex, making them a practical choice for military procurement [16].
2. Durability: The rugged case design, combined with high water resistance, made the Submariner a reliable tool for military divers [17].
3. Legibility: The introduction of Snowflake hands in 1969, with their angular design and bold contrast, made the Submariner highly legible in low-light and underwater environments [18].
4. Ease of Maintenance: The ETA movements were easy to service, which was a crucial factor for military use, where access to specialized watchmakers might be limited [19].
Collectibility and Desirability Today
The Tudor Submariner has become one of the most collectible dive watches on the market today. Several factors contribute to its desirability, including its military connections, the presence of either the Tudor rose or shield logos, the Snowflake hands, and the rarity of certain references.
Military-Issued Models
Military-issued Submariners, particularly those from the Marine Nationale, are highly sought after. These models are often engraved with military markings and carry historical significance, especially if accompanied by documentation proving military use. Collectors pay a premium for such watches due to their connection to real-world dive operations and the allure of military provenance [20].
The Rose and Shield Logos
The Tudor rose logo, used on early models like the 7922 and 7924, is a favorite among collectors due to its association with Tudor’s heritage. By contrast, the shield logo, introduced in the 1960s, represents the brand’s focus on durability and strength, making later models equally appealing for those who admire the technical prowess of Tudor’s tool watches [21].
The Snowflake Dial and Hands
Introduced in 1969, the Snowflake hands and square hour markers gave the Submariner a distinctive look that set it apart from Rolex models. These design elements, coupled with the military association of Snowflake Submariners, make them especially desirable. References such as the 9401/0 in blue are particularly sought after, as these models are rare and often heavily used, making well-preserved pieces highly valuable [22].
Rarity and Condition
As with most vintage watches, rarity and condition play significant roles in the collectibility of Tudor Submariners. Early references, especially those with the rose logo or military engravings, are difficult to find in good condition due to their heavy use. Watches with original components, minimal polishing, and intact lume are considered grail pieces among collectors [23].
Recent Market Trends
The market for Tudor Submariners has grown significantly in recent years, driven in part by the resurgence of Tudor as a brand. Vintage references, especially those from the 1970s and 1980s, are increasingly being recognized as valuable alternatives to vintage Rolex Submariners. Auction houses like Phillips and Christie’s have spotlighted military-issued Submariners, raising their profile and prices, with some models achieving remarkable sums at auction [24].
The Tudor Submariner has cemented its place as a true icon in the world of horology. With its nearly 45 years of production, military heritage, unique design elements, and increasing desirability among collectors, it continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. Whether it’s the historical connection to military divers or the distinct appeal of the Snowflake dial, the Tudor Submariner is a timepiece that combines both form and function, making it a highly sought-after watch for those who appreciate history, craftsmanship, and enduring style.
References
1. Dowling, J., & Hess, J. The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches. (1996). Pages 110-115.
2. Rossler, J. Tudor: The Man and His Watch. (2016). Pages 78-85.
3. Brozek, G. Vintage Rolex Sports Models. (2010). Pages 201-205.
4. Scholten, M. “Tudor’s Military Watches: A Historical Overview.” WatchTime Magazine. (2020).
5. Adams, A. “The Submariner’s Role in Military History.” aBlogtoWatch. (2017).
6. Huber, M. Tudor Submariner Reference Guide. (2019). Pages 32-35.
7. Ward, G. “Military-Grade Watches: The Story of Tudor’s Submariner.” WatchPro Magazine. (2021).
8. Thorpe, S. “Tudor Watches in Military Use: A Deep Dive into the Archive.” Fratello Watches. (2021).
9. Smith, L. “Why the French Navy Chose Tudor.” Hodinkee. (2019).
10. Phillips, J. “From Sea to Shore: The Tudor Submariner’s Evolution.” Phillips Watches Auction Catalog. (2016).
11. Michal, J. ETA Movements in Tudor Watches: A Technical Analysis. (2018).
12. Thorpe, S. “Military Engravings and Tudor Watches.” *
Amazing read as always Adam!!!